Claudia Casper: First Impressions of Iceland

My travel companion, the much-decorated Anne Giardini (and I don’t just mean her necklace and earrings, she has a QC, Jubilee Medal, is president of Weyerhaeuser, a writer, and new Chancellor of Simon Fraser University) and I arrive in Iceland for the inaugural Iceland Writers Retreat. We spend the first night in Reykjavik learning that: Iceland boasts the smallest gender gap in the world; subsists almost completely on renewable energy (geothermal, wind); continues to hunt whales which are then mostly consumed by tourists on a dare or luxury dogs in Japan; and has a pervasive sense of humour that has the quick wit of Westjet attendants but with something mordantly ironic added.

The next morning we pick up our sad car rental on the outskirts of Reykjavik – Sad Car is the name of the rental agency. The car, a red Subaru, has a couple of warning lights on permanent yellow, and a few rattles and dings, but its 240,000 km on the odometer proves it’s too tough to break down, right? Anne and I are taking two days on a tour to kickstart our muses before the retreat, where we will attend workshops lead by authors including Joseph Boyden, Geraldine Brooks, Susan Orlean, James Scudmore, Iain Reid, Randy Boyagoda and Sara Wheeler.

We head north-west toward the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Black volcanic mountains saddled with melting snow loom like a giant pod of time-captured Orcas. Flatlands of bubbled lava eroded into to lumpy fields lead from the ocean up to the soft scree skirts of the mountains. The ground is carpeted with humps of straw-colored grass. Very little evidence of agriculture exists on this side of the country, only an occasional small hay field, the bales wrapped in plastic beside small barns where the cows apparently hide out until summer. The only animals we see are Icelandic horses with their windswept hair swept coyly over one eye, and a few seagulls, which Anne dubs the rats of the sea.

Three hours later we arrive at the Budir Hotel on the south coast of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. We fall thirstily on a cup of tea at the bar –Anne cannot drink tea without being suffused with existential pleasure – and checked emails, etc. while glancing out at the view of a river merging into the ocean and a long line of black mountains. The walls are decorated with art pieces made of bone, owl feathers, shell, wire and grass, and the room is furnished with wild shaggy sheepskin stools. Our room overlooks the windswept flats and causes us to channel the Bronte sisters and imagine holing up here, drinking milky tea and writing for months. We head outside across the lava fields, the constantly changing sky overhead dislodging any mental habit of defining weather, and experience the dynamic, fully dimensional topography with its sudden holes, clefts and eruptions, covered with lichen, moss, ferns, sebum and latent grass.

The next day we head up the Snefellsjoskull Glacier on snowmobiles, being told to keep our legs tucked in if we start to tip. The night before, Anne had rather gleefully read out the many ways in which a remarkable numbers of tourists manage to get themselves killed in Iceland: picnicking on an ice floe that detached and floated away, falling into crevasses in glaciers covered by recently fallen snow, and so on. We roar on our machines (admittedly at ladylike speeds) over recently fallen snow, following our lead man, Oddur, into a total white out, and surrender there to the wild white mystery of the cold and the wind.

A drive, a dinner, a bottle of wine and another sleep later, we head back to Reykjavik for the first day of the inaugural Iceland Writer’s Retreat, founded by Erica Green and Eliza Reid. More tomorrow from Anne!

Comments

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I have beeen following this blog for a while now and today i decided to share my tinnitus story to encourage someone out there. I suffered from terrible tinnitus for 8 years after a constant exposure to loud noise. These noise sounded like a car horn in my right ear and grew worse at night when everywhere was calm and quiet, i lacked sleep and this ruined my psychological life. I had no idea the sound was damaging my hearing until it was too late and i had partial deafness, i had a constant ringing in my ear which always makes me feel like taking my own life. I tried so many drugs even B-vitamin supplements, especially B-5, visited so many audiologist, neuromonics and all was to no avail. I have not seen my ex for a long while and when we bumped into each other she knew i was not okay and i had to tell her all i was facing. She felt so sad but told me there is a cure which let me in amazement. That was when she told me about Dr. Joseph herbal medicine which gives a permanent relief to tinnitus symptoms and cures it. Lord know i needed help so i got the medicine and used it, that was when i met a breakthrough, i am perfectly okay now and i sleep calm without any stress and i hear clearly now. You too can get cured just contact him on (josephalberteo @ gmail. com) for advise and how to get the medicine. Thanks

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There is no other way i can express how happy i am but spreading the goodness to the whole world to know of how Dr Akuna cured my Mother of her Herpes Simplex 1&2 disease. she has suffered from Herpes simplex 1&2 since 35years ago and she has tried all sort of remedy of getting a cure none worked for her. until i was searching on a blog and i saw how Dr Akuna helped plenty of people and i wanted the cure for my Mother. so i contacted him. and afterwards he directed me on how to about it and i abide on the instruction and he prepared a medicine and said once my mother drink it for 2 weeks she will be totally cured.i believe and surely he did and when i receive the medicine i gave it to my Mother and directed her how to drink it daily and it 2 weeks she went to the Doc and was confirmed negative.thanks to Dr Akuna. i have directed my other relation and friend to him and he has cured their numerous Disease.CANCER.DIABETES.HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE.AIDS AND SO MANY. contact his Mobile:+23454625070 OR his email:drakunasolutiontemple@gmail.com or his website:http://drakunasolutiontem.wix.com/dr-akuna


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 THE WORLD should know how powerful Dr Akuna herbal medicine is that cure my Genital Herpes Simplex 1 that i have been diagnosed since 2015 January 3rd and i have tried all kinds of medicine to cleanse this disease off my body but i couldn't get any help.one morning i was checking on a friend sky-rock blog where i saw a comment of how Dr Akuna cured several persons of their diseases of any kinds i was bewildered so i contacted him on his Email:drakunasolutiontemple@gmail.com after which i wrote to him about how i can get his remedy and he told me that he will prepare a herbal medicine for me that i will use and be cured in 2 weeks. i was so happy which i provided him the needed herbs to prepare my medicine. today i am free and happy after using Dr Akuna medicine for 2 weeks i was confirmed negative by my doctor. contact him today and be cured too. on his mobile:+23454625070

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 THE WORLD should know how powerful Dr Akuna herbal medicine is that cure my Genital Herpes Simplex 1 that i have been diagnosed since 2015 January 3rd and i have tried all kinds of medicine to cleanse this disease off my body but i couldn't get any help.one morning i was checking on a friend sky-rock blog where i saw a comment of how Dr Akuna cured several persons of their diseases of any kinds i was bewildered so i contacted him on his Email:drakunasolutiontemple@gmail.com after which i wrote to him about how i can get his remedy and he told me that he will prepare a herbal medicine for me that i will use and be cured in 2 weeks. i was so happy which i provided him the needed herbs to prepare my medicine. today i am free and happy after using Dr Akuna medicine for 2 weeks i was confirmed negative by my doctor. contact him today and be cured too. on his mobile:+23454625070 or his website: http://drakunasolutiontem.wixsite.com/dr-akuna

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